Life in a Humpback

Day 50: El Questro (Day 1)

Today we got up early and drove out to El Questro Gorge trail head. The water level in the river on the way in was less than 80cm so was open to non-snorkel fitted 4WDs like ours. So we thought we'd take the chance to get out there. In the end there were four river sections to cross. One rather long deep one and the others much shorter and shallower.

Once at the trail head we started the walk into the gorge. The first part of the walk was more open as we followed the stream that runs through the gorge, often by walking back and forth across it. This lower part of the gorge was filled with Livistona Palms. As it started to narrow the sandstone walls where filled with ferns. We made it to the Halfway Pool and changed into our swimmers to wade out into the pool and climb the rocks to continue further into the gorge.

After the Halfway Pool the gorge walls continued to narrow and we had to traverse lots of large boulders and even scramble up a bit of a rock wall and some steep steps to eventually make it to Mac Miking Gorge Pool at the end of the walk. There weren't very many people at the pool and we even got a few minutes of being in the water with just the four of us. After a refreshing swim we headed back down the gorge to the car. Stopping at the lower pool for a longer swim this time.

Then it was back to camp. Late in the afternoon we headed over to the bar and grassy area near reception for the kids to set up a cricket game and the adults could have a cold drink. By the time the sun set the kids had 10 players on the pitch.

Day 49: NT/WA Border to El Questro

This morning we got up early and headed for the NT/WA border. We passed our quarantine check - only having to leave a piece of fire wood that still had bark on it. Then we rolled into Kununara around 8.30am (as we gained another 1.5 hours crossing the border). We stopped long enough for a quick restock of fresh fruit and veggies, and to head to Ivanhoe Cafe for breakfast before continuing west to El Questro.

The road was paved until the turn off to El Questro Station. It was then 16km of dirt road. Most of it was pretty good driving, just a few small corrugations, as a section of it was being graded as we drove in. But there were three river crossings to negotiate as well. I had heard there were at least two possible river crossing but apparently John did not remember being told that, and he was the one driving. The first one was not very deep but the other two were ~60cm deep. The last one was the longest as well. John did a great job negotiating these on the fly for his first ever river crossing, never mind that he was also towing the caravan! The car and caravan both survived the drive in, although we did get some water on the inside step of the caravan that came through the vents at the bottom of the door.

Once we checked in and found our campsite we hung out for the afternoon. Olivia and Theo played cricket in the heat of the afternoon. Then we all headed over to the creek for the kids to have a swim. Olivia then scouted out a few places for her bracelet stall.

Day 48: Katherine to NT/WA Border

Today we started to head west towards the West Australia (WA) border. Along the way we passed through Judbarra (Gregory) National Park - stopping for lunch at the Victoria River Escarpment Trail car park. We then we continued along the Victoria Highway until we were 16km east of the NT/WA border. We stayed the night at the Alex Kellet Rest Area with half a dozen other caravans. We had some lovely campsite neighbours who were very helpful in regards to the quarantine requirements for the boarder crossing in the morning, and Olivia even manged another sale of her bracelets.

Tonight we also had our first outside movie night, with a showing of Wild Robot - Theo's choice.

Day 47: Katherine (Day 2: Theo)

We went on a tour through Cutta Cutta Caves where we saw lots of cool rocks crystals on rocks and a snake but we did not see any bats 🙁. The tree snake was up in a tiny crevasse in the cave. The type of bats that could have been there was a ghost bat and leaf-nosed bat.

Day 47: Katherine (Day 2: Olivia)

Today we went on a cave tour at Cutta Cutta Caves and we saw a brown tree snake. The caves were really big but it gets too warm so we couldn't go all the way in.

We also went on a walk to Katherine Gorge in Nitmiluk National Park. It wasn't very long and afterwards we went back and got an ice cream.

When we got back to camp we played cricket. All the boys weren't playing properly so I decided to sell my bracelets instead. Some other girls helped me and I made lots of money. We were really busy and there were still people there when I had to stop for dinner.

Day 46: Katherine (Day 1)

Today we headed back north of Katherine to Edith Falls. The kids and John jumped into the bottom pool while I went for a walk up to Bemang Lookout to see the middle and upper pools. When I got back to the bottom pool everyone was out. Olivia was cold so had gone to change but the boys were standing on the edge of the pool looking into a tree. It turned out when they were swimming a few minutes earlier a green tree snake had "swum" across from the far shore straight towards John. Once John realised what it was he moved to the side to let it pass before it slithered out of the water and up a nearby tree. It hung around for a bit so we all got to have a look at it. Not long after we saw another one moving across the water a bit further out.

After all that excitement I headed into the pool for a swim, while John headed out to the waterfall at the other end of the pool. The kids had set themselves up a picnic in the sun to warm up again. When John got back he went up to Bemang Lookout as well before we all headed back to camp for the 3:30pm animal feeding at the farm stay.

The previous night we saw a few of the animals on the farm we are staying at but today we got to find out how many different types there are. We started the feeding tour with the cows, followed by the goats, horse and donkeys. We also got to pet the very cute 3 week old baby goats. Next stop was the emus, where the owner put the pellets into his mouth and let the emus eat out of his mouth. No one else was game to give that a go so opted to keep the pellets in our hands instead. From here we went over to the water buffaloes, pigs (including piglets) and a saltwater crocodile. Then we got to see all of the smaller animals they have, including, sugar gliders, frill neck lizards, several other lizards, snakes, a fresh water crocodile, rabbits and ducks. At the very end of the tour the kids could line up to hold a snake. Olivia jumped into line whereas Theo was happy to watch.

Theo finished off his evening with another game of cricket while Olivia started making lots of friendship bracelets as she is keen to start up a store at our next caravan park.

Day 45: Kakadu National Park to Katherine

Last night it rained on our camp for the first time since we left Adelaide. We had forgotten how loud it sounds on the roof when it is raining heavily, which resulted in everyone sleeping in the next morning. Our first stop was 2 km down the road at the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. This was a great way to wrap up our time in the park. There were several displays on the various stories that we read about at Ubirr and Burrungkuy art sites, and a lot of information on the culture both old and new of the local indigenous groups.

Next we headed back south to the Stuart Highway and had lunch at Pine Creek on our way to Katherine. We rolled into Katherine Farmstay late in the afternoon. We have a great spot next to the pool and playground. Once camp was set up, we had a wander around looking at some of the animals, including emus, turkeys, ostriches, peacocks, water buffalo and goats. After, Theo and Olivia found a few kids to play cricket with before dinner.

The evenings are cooler in Katherine which is a nice change from the Top End. I think we have realised as a family that we don't love the hot nights!

Day 44: Kakadu National Park (Day 3)

Today was our last full day in the park. This time we headed south to Gunlom plunge pool and it's natural infinity pool. It was a dusty, bumpy road in but well worth the effort. Once at the car park we were unable to have a look at the lower plunge pool as it was closed due to a saltwater crocodile that has moved in. We heard that this crocodile has been tricky to catch, so until they do the pool remains closed. Fun fact: this plunge pool is also the location for "Echo Lake" from the original Crocodile Dundee movie.

Since the bottom pool was closed we headed up to the stairs to the upper pools. The water was a perfect temperature not warm like the hot springs and not cold that it took your breath away to get in. We spent several hours hanging around the pools, eating lunch, and the kids spent ages building dams and playing in the water.

This was a lovely way to finish our time in Kakadu National Park.

Day 43: Kakadu National Park (Day 2)

This morning we all got up early to catch the bus to our Sunrise Yellow River Cruise. Once again we ended up in a half filled boat, which meant everyone could move around a bit if they wanted. We headed off with our guide Brock down the Yellow River towards the East Alligator River. We saw lots of crocodiles, black cranes, spoonbills, egrets, Australasian darters, sea eagles, whistling and black kites, both blue and teal kingfishers, and so many more birds.

The highlights of the tour for me where:

• watching the sunrise over the marshlands
• seeing a black crane (Jabiru) walk right past a crocodile seemingly with out a care in the world
• seeing a male comb-crested Jacana (or Jesus bird) walking along the tops of lily pads with his chicks tucked up under his wings with their little legs sticking out.

The Jacana eventually dropped its chicks back onto the lily pads and they were the cutest little balls of fluff.

After such a big morning we headed back to camp for the rest of the morning. We had a good look at the green ants that were living in the tree next to our camp site and caught up on an episode of Cutlaps until going to Burrungkuy art site and lookout in the late afternoon. We read about the lightening man story, saw lots of rock art, and climbed up to the lookout. Then headed back to the car before we melted in the heat.

Day 42: Kakadu National Park (Day 1)

Today I woke up to loud banging on the roof. Cockatoos were going crazy in the trees and dropping leaves and branches onto the caravan. In the morning we went to Cahills Crossing to look at crocodiles. There were so many. We even saw people drive through the water that was covering the road with crocs in the water next to the cars. Then we went to lunch. First we went to a grocery store, then the resort, and than another place I don't know the name of. We finally just got food and drinks at the grocery store. I got a strawberry milk and a croissant. Then we went for a walk to look at rock art at Ubirr (including one of a Tasmanian Tiger) and watched the sunset. Dad and Theo played chess at the lookout.